THE LAST SEASON COLLECTION at Australian Fashion Week 2024

Australians throw 500 million kgs of clothing into landfill every year, it’s staggering!

As a sustainable fashion label, with our main focus on making garments that do less harm to the planet we refuse to add to this problem. To avoid this wastage, we took a stand and refused to launch our new collection at AFW24, until we have sold every single piece of our previous one. It was a brave move in a bid to create an optimistic future for the planet and its people and the fashion industry. Most importantly our debut demonstrated how we are not just talking about sustainability we are actually proving it .

OUT WITH THE new and in with the old. While some designers at 2024 Australian Fashion Week (AFW) showed off bumsters, nipple-baring fabrics or creative storytelling techniques — the bravest runway of all was perhaps that of madre natura. Rather than launch a new collection, the Sydney-based label presented an old one, aptly titled “The Last Seasons Collection” as a powerful stance against fashion wastage, having partnered with clean-tech start-up, Greener. madre natura, who won the 2023 National Designer Award for Sustainability, is reportedly the first-ever designer to show a previously-seen collection on a major runway.

In practising what they preach, madre natura’s founder, creative director and head of sustainability Jackie Galleghan protested against the 500 million kilograms of clothing that Australians throw into landfill each year by sharing an important message: “glamour need not come at the world’s expense.” Without even needing to read show notes, guests picked up on her guilt-free fashion concept as an audio recording announced: “Every item you are about to see is ethically sourced and sustainably made. And every item is from last season. Because to avoid wastage, we’re not launching a new collection, until we’ve sold every single piece of our old one.”

“The focus was on my old collection rather than launching a new collection like everyone always does,” Galleghan told Harper’s BAZAAR Australia/New Zealand ahead of Thursday’s runway. “‘The Last Season Collection’ focuses on a simple, clean, minimal runway in order for the clothes to tell the story of the durability, craftsmanship and sustainability.”

Models, including Unice Wani (a TikTok star with over 8.5 million followers), proceeded onto the runway in madre natura’s still-available pieces from their 2023 collection styled in refreshing new ways — a demonstration of how with fresh eyes, one’s wardrobe can always feel new. Inspired by the Swinging Sixties, “The Last Season Collection” is a manifestation of “nostalgic dreaming,” recalling the pop art movement led by the inimitable Andy Warhol. Hues resembled that of Australian natives in soft whites, neutrals and navy — with French girl chic prints and patterns à la breton stripes and polka dots splashed across sheer gowns, shirts and hip-grazing maxi skirts. Silk organza twin sets, effortless tailoring and reinvented gender-neutral classics such as neckerchiefs, were all repurposed and crafted with the highest quality renewable materials, from dead stock to natural fibres.

While the whole presentation was conceived with durability and optimism in mind, Galleghan’s collection highlight remains one close to her heart. In a literal sense, that is — she got married in the Jackie Dress, Gardina Blazer and Jackwood Pants which compose the final look of the runway. “All of these I designed for my wedding and getaway look,” she explained. “I’m going to tear up when they hit the Greener runway.”

With the intention of selling all existing items before coming up with new designs, madre natura — which means “Mother Nature” in Italian — also partnered with TikTok as part of the platform’s TikTok For Good SMB Kickstarter Program. The whole show was live-streamed so savvy sartorialists could watch and buy each look in real-time. “We are using our concept to highlight our commitment to responsible fashion and to create an optimistic future for not only the fashion industry. But for our planet and its people,” Galleghan explained.

So while madre natura didn’t showcase a new collection as Galleghan had so long dreamt of presenting, she did make a small but mighty step — I mean, it’s a world-first runway! — towards fashion wastage; her glowing face and passionate embrace from her husband at the show’s conclusion testament to her brazen decision. “I mean, what is the point of having the best slow fashion house on the planet… if we don’t have a planet?” Galleghan summarised.

Harper’s BAZAAR: What was the starting point of your design process for this collection?

Jackie Galleghan: ‘The Last Season Collection’ (Wish You Were Here 23) is focused around the concept of the ‘Nostalgic New Yorker’ from the ’60s.

My design elements draw influence from silhouettes and hues from the golden years of the 1960s. It is a manifestation of my nostalgic dreaming as I take the wearer back to a time when Andy Warhol led the pop art movement, working and celebrating life with close friends in his famous New York ‘Factory’.

For ‘The Last Season Collection,’ I’ve sustainably sourced materials that are repurposed, or from dead stock or natural fibres all with plastic free trims. With a focus on soft tailoring, hand beading and timeless evaluated classics this collection is going to really blow people’s minds.

What were your major references in putting together this collection and runway?

To challenge the fashion industry at Australian Fashion Week with a zero waste focus via Orphan Agencies concept of ‘The Last Seasons Collection.’ It is a concept we believe the industry needs to show that however big or small we are, we can all do our bit for an optimistic future for all. We just didn’t want to talk about sustainability, we want to prove we are doing something about it. The Last Season Collection is proof of our commitment to slow fashion and the future of our planet.

Greener has come on board as our runway sponsor and are presenting the collection. Like Madre Natura, they are focused on creating a sustainable future.

What is the story you wanted to tell through this collection — and how does it fit into the overarching narrative of the brand?

Showing, not talking. We are taking a bold stance against wastage, with our ‘Last Season Collection” concept and focusing on slow fashion as a brand, to prove it can be done and will be loved. We are using our concept to highlight our commitment to responsible fashion and to create an optimistic future for not only the fashion industry, but for our planet and its people.

I mean, what is the point of having the best slow fashion house on the planet… if we don’t have a planet.

Is there a particular look you are most fond of from this collection?

The last piece… The Jackie Dress & Gardina Blazer & Jackwood Pants — as all of these I designed for my wedding and getaway look. I’m going to tear up when they hit the Greener runway.

Talk us through the creative process with the design of your runway itself. How does the atmosphere complement the collection?

The focus was on my old collection rather than launching a new collection like everyone always does. ‘The Last Season Collection’ focuses on a simple, clean, minimal runway in order for the clothes to tell the story of the durability, craftsmanship and sustainability. As the concept is radical enough… we wanted to ensure that the Greener runway felt familiar and digestible and was special.

How do you want people to feel when they witness this collection and runway?

Uneasy, disrupted, enlightened, optimistic and inspired.